walking Stick Wood Stoves How To Make?

Today I am going to show you how to make walking stick wood stoves. These procedure are easy. In fact you can easily carry in forest.

Walking stick wood stoves

In this article we'll be taking a look at several lightweight wood burning stoves that I've designed to bring a heat source inside of a shelter while keeping the smoke outside using a stove pipe.

This is not a new idea. It's how wood stoves have worked for 1000 years, but making one with a form factor you can easily take on a hike. That's more of a challenge, especially concerning the stove pipe, which is by nature a bulky item.

In my research of existing portable stove designs, I found that most people make the stove itself out of something like a heavy steel box lifted off the ground on legs and the pipe is made from thin sheet metal so the stove can support the weight. The problem with this is that the pipe is still the bulkiest item you can't fit it into a backpack, and it's relatively fragile if it's made from thin sheet metal. My idea for a more practical hiking stove was to go the opposite direction. The pipe is the part made from thick steel sturdy enough to use as a walking stick while the stove which is small enough to slip into a backpack is very lightweight. I used one piece of pipe cut in half to make both of these stoves, an eight foot long steel closet rod which was $28 at my local home improvement Store.

The whole setup for this stove in front of me is only about three pounds. With a wooden plug in one end of the stove pipe, it's a very sturdy walking stick. And since it's hollow it can be used for storing Tinder or charcoal from your last fire.

Working from the initial idea of using a heavy pipe and a light stove, I designed several stoves that instead of having feet and sitting on the ground, would hang from the stove pipe which itself is held in the air by a piece of wire connecting it to the supports of shelter. The only requirement is that you have two parallel beams to hang it from the wire keeps the pipe right in the middle of the gap so it doesn't contact either beam, which otherwise could be a fire hazard. As with any fire source, these stoves require caution and awareness of the environment they're used in.

Notice that where I am sitting, I've cleared away all the flammable debris right down to bare earth and the This tree behind me is green and healthy from a recent rainstorm.

For the final version of this design, it was important to me that it use very few moving parts. And since it's made from thin steel which may rust after repeated uses, it must be inexpensive and easy to replace. This one I made from two large soup cans the first has a hole drilled the top for the stove pipe and a square opening in the side to feed in wood. I used the second can to make the door and all of it is held together by a single 10th steak. This steak acts as a hinge to allow the door to open and close and also passes through the inner can through two holes in the end of the stove pipe and out the other side.

So if we pull the 10th steak, the stove comes apart and can be quickly packed away. This stove throws off a lot of heat and it keeps on a bed of coals going below the door opening so that the fire doesn't go out the instant the stove runs out of wood. The only thing I don't like about this design is it doesn't provide a flat surface to prepare food on. To that end I came up with this final version.

This is a coffee can prepared by drilling a hole in the side for the stove pipe to pass through. And again two holes on either side for a 10 stake to hold the pipe in place. Near the opening of the Can I cut a rectangle out of the wall which gives me a place to feed in fuel. Since the mouth of the coffee can is open, the actual fire will be burning on the ground which is useful for a number of different reasons. For one, there's one less service That can be attached by rust. And also we can increase the stoves internal capacity for free just by digging a hole underneath it.

Finally starting a fire is easier because we have the option to start it in the open and then set the stove on top.

To control the air intake to this stove, I simply use another piece of metal cut from an extra can with the edge bent out so it can easily be handled. I was tempted to use hinges or some kind of slide to attach this as a permanent stove door, but it works perfectly as is and there's no extra parts to break.

Now the stove pipe in this case is supported by another piece of wire hanging from a single parallel branch and this could also hang from a picnic table. At a campsite, or any number of other things, I also put a hose clamp on the stove pipe to keep it from slipping on the wire and pushing the stove along with it. But it turns out this really wasn't necessary.

Obviously, in this design, the pipe is meant to go out of the shelter sideways, and surprisingly it still draws the smoke outward just as well as a vertical chimney. This one is at about a 30 degree incline and I've tested the stove successfully with the pipe as shallow as 20 degrees. As long as the wind is not pushing the smoke directly back down the pipe have not had any issues. With only a small handful of twigs as fuel this stove gets incredibly hot, and it stays that way for upwards of an hour if you limit the airflow.

In my journey, I've made simple wood burning stoves like this, which cooked by an open flame. And these do work well if you're willing to get a little bit of smoke in your eyes.

But this lets you Cook almost as easily as your stove burner at home. And even if your fuel is damp and smoky, it all goes out the stove pipe. Of course back to the main point of this project. The stove comes apart just by pulling a single pin in can even be carried in one piece as a walking stick.

I hope you enjoy making walking stick wood stoves.

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